
I can finally make my Gundam plastic model debut!
Thank you, nameless person, for telling me that it was being done on DMM!
Heavy Arms is cool!
Did you buy the tools?
>>1I have prepared what you said when I asked before!
For the Keroro Nipper, ink for decals, mark setter, tweezers, cotton swabs, and detail brush!
Choosing Heavy Arms for the first MS shows that you haven’t forgotten your boyish heart.
>>2But I might be killing adolescence.
It’s commendable to hold onto your first Gunpla for Heavy Arms.
It would be great to have a design knife as well.
The Olfa art knife PRO is cheap, has a wide variety of replacement blades, and is recommended.
>>5Thanks! I’ll buy it!
>>9
You can buy this at any home center around here or online.
There are many types of replacement blades that are useful for plastic models, and they come with anti-roll features.
It can also prevent accidents like randomly placing something that rolls and gets stuck in your leg!!
>>12I ordered from Yodobashi!
This is perfect, Heebi Bibi!
Heavyarms is a boy, isn’t he…
When it comes to Heavyarms, it has to be red, right?
Heavy Arms for the first time is quite mischievous.
Is it about MG?
That was fast… your first Gundam model kit too.
Does Heavy Arms have decals?
>>13Isn’t there?
Well, it’s fine since I’ll use it for B-Pra… (this is my first time too)
Let’s buy the 600 and 1000 files too.
If you’re going to apply water transfer decals, it’s good to have a craft knife for cutting them out.
You’re making quite a preparation since debut, aren’t you?
>>16If you want to finish the MG Katoki mecha beautifully, you need various tools.
I won’t say anything bad!
Before applying the panel lines, make sure to buy a lacquer gloss clear and a water-based matt clear for after the decals!
>>20(It feels like the level is high…)
What a wonderful guy to choose Heavy Arms as his first Gunpla!
If it’s MG or above, even just assembling it will take quite a bit of time, so you need to set aside a good chunk of time…
>>22Huh…
Heavy Arms is packed with romance in its color, firepower, and silhouette.
There are kits that promote the fact that it doesn’t take long to make things like 30MM.
There are kits that allow you to take your time and get serious about it…
Hmm… is it difficult…?
The initial inking can be done with a Gundam marker.
In videos about first-time Gundam model building, there are quite a few that take several hours even for HG.
There are rough categories of HG, MG, and PG, and MG is about an intermediate level of difficulty…
If you don’t closely look at the order to fit the parts and the instructions, you might mistakenly use similar-shaped parts…
I still try to make both hands and feet at the same time out of laziness, and end up getting them mixed up instead.
>>32It’s a good idea to separate the parts in the middle left and right!
Sometimes there are mistakes at the sorting stage, or items are mistakenly grouped together on one side.
However, if it’s not the first move being a perfect grade, then it should be manageable…
I’ve done Keroro Platoon before, so it should be fine… probably…
Heavy Arms has solid internal gimmicks, so the difficulty level is quite high…
First, create it, and if you want to do something else, then you can do that too.
How difficult is a thread image?
I was able to create an ExS for HG about 20 years ago.
If you can read the characters, you can assemble it.
If it’s the bare Heavy Arms, it should be manageable even as an MG… If it had the Eagle equipment, it would have been over.
Cut the parts cleanly apart.
Read the manual carefully.
Assemble according to the instructions.
If you repeat this, it shouldn’t be too difficult with Bandai kits, no matter how many parts they have.
I think it would be fine to practice by picking up a 1/144 kit until it arrives.
There are various things like 30MM besides Gunpla.
If it’s Gunpla, as long as you have an understanding appropriate for the target age and can assemble it according to the instructions, it’s not a big deal.
(I’m getting tired of assembling the same parts… should I assemble a different part…)
Many people don’t know that Bandai’s model kits state you should read and understand the instructions before assembling them.
If you understand it, the order in which you put it together doesn’t matter.
If it’s your first time, it’s best to do it in order.
Reading the manual! Memorized the anonymous!
The HG Heavy Arms is well-made, but it’s not for sale.
Gunpla, or rather Bandai’s plastic models, are really durable and the instruction manuals are very user-friendly.
Careless actions can lead to death.
It takes time because there are many parts, but it’s not difficult and the quality is high.
Since there are many built-in weapons, it might be a good idea to do all the panel lining before starting the assembly.
If I make the face a Death Scythe, it will be perfect.
Let’s also combine Sandrock.
What does it mean to debut in Gunpla?
Did you not watch Gundam anime and build Gunpla when you were in elementary or middle school?
>>53There must be that many or more…
If it’s Heavy Arms for the first time, it seems like there would be a lot of satisfaction.
You might end up wanting the other four machines too.
I used to assemble cheap kits of G Gundam and W, how nostalgic…
You can just follow the instructions to build your first Gunpla.
>>58Even if it’s not the first time, you should make it according to the instructions.
It’s tough for people who are debuting or coming back now, isn’t it?
It may sound strange to say this, but I wish the number of people buying it would decrease by about half.
>>60I’m glad the place I returned to was SD Gundam.
>>62I’m not selling General Fortress.
>>60People are getting hooked again in GQ.
Did you buy an iguana?
It’s great that Heavyarms is your first Gunpla.
I recently thought that the instruction manuals for Gunpla are different from before because, with humanoid models, you have to make two identical parts for the arms and legs.
Moreover, I had no choice but to leave it alone until the torso was complete, which was the part that got the most boring, but recently, I’ve been having them create the face and torso first, and then the arms and legs in that order.
I think this is a really amazing place, unlike it used to be in the past.
>>66MG Turn X for you.
Since both my hands and feet are all different shapes, I never get bored!
It was tough to strike a pose with the large weapon connected to the belt and the wrists separating.
But it’s incredibly cool, Hebia!
Hehe… It’s not good to find yourself in a situation where you’ve over-sanded a concave area with a design knife during the gate processing stage and can’t do anything about it, so be careful…!
>>68If you re-fill it with runner putty, it should still work!
Be careful with the design knife; if you’re not used to it, you might cut the nerves in your fingers! Seriously.
The first Gundam model kit I bought in elementary school was Heavy Arms.
Re-release the revised version.
If you’re feeling anxious, you could buy a cheap plastic model that costs less than 1000 yen and practice with it.
>>74Maybe around 30MM, probably Poképla or SD…
>>77Here is EG, isn’t it?
Musha Shikidori was my first Gunpla.
When assembling the Hevia model, you wonder if there are missiles in this cap…?
https://p-bandai.jp/item/item-1000230209/
I will buy this Troi and display it next to me.
When decorating, I always hesitate between a rifle or a saber, so having a mech that only has this as a handheld weapon is actually a relief.
The image in the thread is a dry decal, not a water transfer decal.
Is everyone just a clueless airhead about Heavy Arms (EW version)?
It’s completely different, so it’s better to search for it without a thread name.
I thought about buying a parts opener and adhesive for seam filling in case of failure, but it seems that seams on recent kits aren’t very noticeable.
>>82Basically, since it’s a panel line and if it’s something like Iron Blooded Orphans, you could interpret it as being embedded in the frame, so it doesn’t necessarily need to be erased.
>>82It seemed like skills such as seam elimination, putty filling, and painting were essential, but it’s amazing how recent products can be satisfying just as they are.
>>82A part opener is useful for when you forget to insert a piece or if you accidentally placed the piece the wrong way, so it’s worth having!
Just read the instruction manual and follow it, so all you need is the motivation.
Stop threatening me by saying it’s difficult, okay?
Recommended: Creos Water-Based Top Coat (Matte)
The premium one is the best, but the regular one is fine too.
After assembling, if you spray it a couple of times quickly, the colored plastic will have a painted texture.
Don’t be lazy and replace the blade that’s losing its sharpness, beginner.
Don’t be like me.
I think MG Heavy Arms is quite good as a material that makes you go “Wow, MG is great…”
I thought it was my first MG, but it turns out it’s my first Gunpla. What an eager boy…
For now, as long as I have thin blade nippers, tweezers for sticking seals, and an opener in case I accidentally fit something wrong, I can make it.
In addition, it’s a pigment liner pen and a stand or case from a 100 yen shop.
If you have the intelligence and skill to make it properly according to the instructions, I think it’s actually a good idea to start with an MG Gundam model.
Even with just a simple assembly, a satisfying three-dimensional model is completed.
>>91I understand the intention now that I realize there are all kinds of people in the world, but that’s quite a phrase.
EG for beginners!
But it’s so amazing that it might make me feel strange.
>>94I only see things related to the expo now… Should I buy this now while I can?
>>98It seems like there won’t be any resales after the expo ends, so if you want it, now might be the time.
There is already a notification about the June cancellations.
If you buy a red marker, you can somewhat disguise the parts turning white when you detach the red parts.
It clearly states to pay attention to the orientation, but in the images of the instructions, there are sometimes subtle differences in parts that make it hard to tell which is which, causing confusion.
MG basically has a structure where armor is put on a frame, so whether you are painting it or just assembling it, it is suitable for both in terms of ease of assembly and ease of painting.
It may cost a bit more than HG and take up space, but…
MG is fun to assemble.
I feel like I saw a thread that a nameless user posted before, but I’m glad I was able to buy the snake.
The MG parts are big and it’s not that difficult, so enjoy it.
I’m not a beginner, but I want the HGUC X3…
>>103I wonder if they’ll release a version of Crossbone that replicates the masks from manga 2 and 3.
My first Gunpla was a blue Hizack.
If it’s your first Gunpla, you should first secure a spacious work area.
The desk is relatively unimportant, but a spacious floor with nothing on it! This is it.
A place like a kotatsu might be the best.
If a part rolls away and you can’t find it, it really decreases your motivation.
The other day, I built the MG Heavy Arms Kai (EW) that I had stacked up for years, and I was wondering if the gatling guns in hand block the missile line of fire from the shoulders when it does a full open attack.
Anyway, if you take your time and properly look at the instructions while cutting the parts and check to make sure you’re not making any mistakes before assembling, you should be fine.
I feel like I can’t do MG without the manual, unlike the fully assembled 30ML or HG Mercury.
Anyone can assemble Gunpla if they don’t think about painting it.
Do your best!
I wondered what my first Gunpla was, and it turned out to be the Zeong.
That’s a choice I don’t really understand…
Gunpla, even when just snap-fitted, embodies the peak of cool technology.