
This is what is currently attracting attention from the Street Fighter 6 crowd.
I want a cheap Chinese leverless stick a little.
The thread image is a size 24, with multiple buttons, an aluminum surface, and a Sanwa lever with a Kwamba button that can be opened with a single touch on the back; it’s quite packed, right?
So the price is 35,000.
The biggest disadvantage is that when using the thread picture on PS5, a converter is required, making it difficult to use in tournaments.
Victrex is great in terms of operability, but you can’t add more buttons.
Well, having a lever that supports multiple buttons is already rare.
When using Hori’s RAP, the buttons are fine, but the lever just won’t execute the moves!
It was good that I could use a hot-swappable keyboard switch.
I’m almost satisfied with Obsidian 2, but I often wish there was an impact button.
The Fighting Commander was difficult to use in Street 6.
I just felt that this one fighting game is enough for me.
Lev Res found the new Haute42 C16 to be quite good.
>>10I’m interested in the one that can be switched between lever and leverless.
>>17That attempt was interesting, but there were also opinions that the lever was a bit questionable.
In the end, it seems like it would be good to use each based on regular arcade sticks and leverless ones… but I’m hesitant to make a decision.
>>10I’m using the U16, but the buttons are a bit unresponsive.
The position of the button to the right of the jump button is special, so I’m thinking of replacing it.
>>28The additional button at the thumb position on the U16 is positioned just a bit too high…
So I skipped it, but C16 had a layout that felt just right, so I bought that instead.
Isn’t surface aluminum tough in the winter? Is that not the case?
>>11Having high durability and being resistant to dirt is quite a significant advantage, I think.
It gets sticky with fingerprints unless it’s aluminum.
>>11It’s super cold and incredibly spicy.
I prioritized quietness and transitioned from a stick to a pad, and I’ve gotten quite used to it, but my accuracy has definitely suffered.
The key disc is dirty…
It seems like IO has good future scalability, but the additional button on the right side is a mystery.
>>14I think it’s convenient to reset the tremolo or have it prepared.
The practical one in size 24 is, after all, the thread image.
It seems that the thread picture is stable even when used as a knee rest, so I’m curious about it.
The C16 from Haute42 has an aluminum chassis, but the top part is made of acrylic and plastic.
I’m glad the hand-cooling issue has been resolved.
I’m curious about the arcade controller that will be released by Sony next year, but it seems like it might be designed under the assumption that the buttons and joystick won’t be replaced based on its appearance.
Even if that can be upgraded, it would likely use Sony’s proprietary parts.
It seems a bit questionable for people who intend to use it with parts exchanges or customizations, right?
I’m using a thread image and it feels good.
I couldn’t master the jump button, so I switched to the impact button.
Even with 8 buttons, it still feels like there aren’t enough buttons, which is crazy for Street Fighter 6.
New leverless controller from Mad Catz!
The position of the added button is just right for this one.
>>26I’m a bit concerned that the button spacing is too wide…
It might be just right for someone with big hands.
>>27I really think I’m the big-handed uncle.
I tried various things with EVOJ, but with other leverless systems, it was difficult to press when I moved my right thumb.
The buttons being a little small might be a matter of preference.
The Kwanba Drone 2 is just right, with no excess or deficiency.
When I was using a stick, I was sticking a mouse pad in front to deal with the problem of the tabletop being too cold.
Still, it’s cold.
>>32I see, that’s one way to take measures…
If that’s included, then an aluminum top is also an option…
I bought a PWS arcade stick, but since I didn’t like the lever or the buttons, I replaced them, and now I’m left with just the shell.
>>34I wish they would just sell the outer shell instead.
Since the Street Fighter 6 boom, the variety of arcade sticks has drastically increased and I can’t keep up at all.
The punk lever seems to be quite subtle…
To be honest, I think the one in the thread (the image) is better if you’re going to buy the lever.
The price is also about 15,000 yen cheaper.
The problem of the overly large noblever.
I thought 35k for the thread image was cheaper than I expected.
While other multi-button arcade sticks exceed 40,000 yen,
>>39Reverses come in a wide variety from cheap to luxury, but for some reason, the demand for liver has exploded through streamers.
The light weight of the PWS case is probably its main selling point.
I hope the options for the 24mm multi-button increase.
When you look at tournaments, there are barely any leverless players; it’s really just in Japan that there is a demand for leverless.
In other words, it’s almost entirely based on the demand for Street Fighter 6 in Japan.
There are a lot of pad players overseas, and they are achieving great results.
When it comes to being high-quality, it definitely has to be Victorinox.
The feeling that you want to keep it just for its appearance.
But it’s not a multi-button.
In other games, there are almost no leverages.
In Street Fighter 6, the situation has become such that there are more leverless controllers than arcade sticks.
I think the reason there are so many reversal letters in Japan’s Street Fighter 6 is due to the influence of Daigo Umehara and Tokido.
Overseas, pads (PS5 DualSense) are mainstream, but there are more arcade sticks than leverless.
I’m using the keyboard, but I’ve gotten used to it, so I’m deciding whether to switch to leverless or stick with this.
>>49The keyboard-type leverless is great too.
One advantage is that it doesn’t have extra buttons unlike a regular keyboard.
A fighting game controller developed by PlayStation.
>>50Releasing a new product with 8 buttons is, to put it mildly, ridiculous.
At least 10 buttons.
>>63Rather, the 10-button one is more niche…
Leverless systems are cost-effective because they don’t require lever fees, and they can implement rapid input like a keyboard, which provides a significant advantage in functionality.
In Street Fighter 6, there are more leverless controllers than levers.
I’m curious about the Cyber Gadget Lever Controller Arcade Freak.
Multi-device compatibility is appealing, but HORI might be a safer choice.
As someone from the old arcade generation, I just can’t get used to leverless controllers, and I couldn’t really control them properly…
I’m waiting for the leverless ZENAIM.
If we introduce a rapid trigger to the lever arcade controller, it would probably end up being very expensive…
I was bad with levers since the arcade era, so I was delighted with the introduction of leverless.
Even if you call it a rapid trigger, it’s just a key switch.
If you use a button that can accommodate a key switch, wouldn’t it work with a regular arcade controller?
It seems that a dedicated foundation will be necessary.
>>59We need to change the infrastructure, so it will incur additional costs.
That’s why it’s only implemented in Levareles, and it costs over 40,000 even in Levareles.
If you use a high lever, it will be expensive, but is there a case where the lever alone becomes more expensive than about four buttons?
>>60Even a standard Sanwa lever costs quite a bit.
The Rapitri stick will be released next time, right?
Street Fighter V had a gameplay that was extremely advantageous for reversal, right?
>>62Yes
It was a game where you walked tirelessly and guarded, so a leverless controller that could set neutral to zero had an absolute advantage.
Also, since passing through the previous stage was important, that input speed as well.
I think with 6, there won’t be as much of an advantage as in Street Fighter V, and it’ll level out to being about equal in pros and cons, depending on the character.
The reason no one is releasing an 8-button lever arcade controller now is simply because there is no demand for it.
>>71The 8-button is officially recognized by major companies like Obsidian 2 and Victrex, and since there’s also RAP, the competition aspect is diminished.
There’s been a lot of hype around Daija lately, but if you’re going to buy that, wouldn’t it be better to get Obsidian 2 instead?
>>71There are official 8-button controllers like Obsihi 2 and Victrix, so these two types are too strong, and there’s also RAP.
There’s no point in revealing it now since everything is already out.
>>83Even so, it’s hilarious that Sony is now trying to sell an 8-button lever arcade stick as a new product.
Maybe that costs over 50,000 yen due to Sony’s brand premium.
You realize the poor quality of the RAP lever when switching from a stick to an arcade controller.
>>72Hori’s arcade controller is cheap but of poor quality.
>>72(The input is messy…)
>>79The RAP uses a proprietary HAYABUSA lever, which has the drawback of making it difficult to input the Shoryuken command due to its design.
Someone is interviewing HORI in a video nearby, maybe Mago or someone else.
>>72If you switch the lever and buttons, it will work fine! So I bought a used α.
The opening top panel is extremely convenient.
I like the Fighting Edge blade.
Nowadays, the trend for playing fighting games is using a pad or leverless controls, so traditional levers are losing a lot of demand.
It’s sometimes difficult to play other fighting games without a lever.
>>76In games with a lot of movement inputs, using the stick can be tough.
I thought the lever wasn’t that noisy, but recently when I tried the PWS lever…
Compared to Sanwa, it’s ridiculously loud, and I see why everyone uses something like this.
I’m playing a rhythm game on the haute I bought earlier.
Guilty seems to have Mochi and Churara as the leverage players, at least.
The lever and the leverless are noisy.
The pad or the silent lever is still better.
The button of the PWS is quite good at being quiet.
I’m using the Sanwa silent lever, but it still makes a clunky noise.
Recent fighting games aren’t enough with eight, so please add ten.
It has become fun with various options to choose from, unlike when there was only RAP.
Rapitri is currently using magnetic key switches, but…
Cherry is likely to sell affordable IK induction switches next year while overcoming the drawbacks of magnetic types.
Then Rapitoria Kecon might become more popular.
That’s why arcade sticks in that thread are quite popular.
I’m a bit interested in the symmetrical leverless controller for rhythm games, but it’s quite expensive.
The noise level greatly varies depending on the construction of the case.
Obsidian2 and those sorts of things are really solid.
>>96The reason the sound occurs is the same as that of a drum.
Try to reduce the cavities as much as possible or make the size of the casing smaller.
It’s important to use thick or hard materials to make it less likely to resonate.
I changed to a 5mm thick arcade stick top with PWS buttons, and it’s become quite quiet.
It’s a story from about 10 years ago, so I don’t know how it is now, but it’s about the HAYABUSA lever.
>>97Player Sako:
People who have a dirty (inaccurate) key display will probably feel frustrated with “Hayabusa.”
(Laughter from everyone)
>>102Well, I was pretty annoyed with Hayabusa’s lever because I was actually dirty myself.
Please adjust for the average person rather than someone like Sako, who represents the beauty of the command.
>>118I believe there are definitely people who think that since this is attached to a budget model like Hori’s arcade controller, the lever input must be difficult.
>>118I hear that the current HAYABUSA lever has a similar kind of setting.
I switched to Sanwa right away too.
The power of the Nobilever is amazing!
There’s really nothing else like Tekken, is there…
>>98First of all, the fact that it can’t be used with the recent slightly thinner arcade sticks makes it selective towards people.
I’m using a leverless with a name that sounds like a knockoff of a Chinese hitbox.
Because it reacts with a feather touch, it leaked like crazy, but once I got used to it, the strain on my wrist drastically decreased.
Sanwa lever and Kwanba 24-size button
Multi-button
Durable with aluminum.
Type-C connection
Non-slip, sturdy and less likely to shake even when used as a knee rest.
There is a place to open and insert the converter even when using it with the PS5.
Easily open from the back with one touch.
35,000 yen
The thread image is a bit over the top…
>>103Personally, I don’t think there are many advantages in this area…
The Qanba buttons are not very quiet.
The Type C connection for arcade controllers raises some concerns about durability.
I like the noir layout, so I’m using α.
Recently, I’ve been hearing a lot about something called the Golden Lever.
>>105That is for Tekken and specifically for Mishima.
>>111There are things specifically for Mishima…
>>113The Mishima style requires endlessly performing the Rising Dragon continuously.
>>111This is a bit of a misunderstanding.
The advantage of GL is that it can be customized, and there are optimized versions for 2D available for sale, so I want to recommend it especially to those who have specific preferences.
I thought HORI would release a button expansion version, but it hasn’t come out at all, so I guess the thread image is good enough, even though it’s a bit expensive…
We can’t make the strange stick thin because it has to withstand the force of great strength.
>>107That is one reason, but it’s necessary to have a certain height physically in order to attach a pre-made pole, so there’s no helping it.
Things like the noblever will require even more height.
Up, down, left, and right can be controlled with this button, and for the attack button side, you can only parry with this.
Putting costs aside, people who don’t mind customization must be having a lot of fun with the many options available right now.
Is the Hayabusa lever improved? Because it has become the HAYABUSA lever.
It seems that there is a strict difference between “Hayabusa” and “HAYABUSA.”
When doing KOF or SNK games in RAP, the moves really don’t come out.
It frequently happens that the hut stops on the second stage of the hollyhock.
>>110If the diagonal input doesn’t register properly, it won’t respond, so I often miss quick inputs and super specials, which is frustrating, so I switched to Sanwa right away.
At that time, the Hayabusa had a significantly different spring recoil due to the key disc input method, making it challenging to use techniques like the thumb grip.
If you’re not someone who controls all the directional inputs and neutrals, it was useless.
When I put it in with a little push from below, it jumped, and when I put it in once from the front, it bounced back so much that it was crazy.
The slim leverless design has amazing storage capabilities, or rather, it can be quite troublesome to figure out where to put it when not in use.
>>115It’s leaning against something…
>>116Sometimes it gets stuck and makes a hellish sound before collapsing.
There has been an increase in discussions about creating arcade sticks in the custom keyboard community.
Is it technically the same?
>>120People in the custom keyboard community tend to…
I have the impression that I started making thin leverless controllers just before leverless became popular.
The golden lever is way too high, it’s scary.
The dolphin-shaped arcade stick that Mei has is pretty nice.
>>122It’s bigger than I expected, and it really feels like if I hit someone with it instead of a regular arcade stick, it could seriously injure or kill them.
>>131Charge!
I knew about Victrix pads, but when I searched for what their arcade controllers are like, this looks amazing…
>>124This tabletop is made of aluminum, so it gets super cold in winter and you can’t move your hands.
Custom item of Fighting Stick α
I am currently requesting a custom top plate for a 24Φ10 button.
Speaking of which, back in the xrd days, I had a hard time executing low air dashes because I was doing it with rap…
In the beginning, there were few options for leverless, and there was a time when it wasn’t even available for sale.
I saw that self-made creations were quite active.
>>130I remember a time when the HITBOX was high and not available, so I made one myself.
If you want a safe option with 8 buttons, it would be the Obushi 2.
Although Victrix has dropped in price by 10,000, it’s still not a sale and costs 53,000 yen, which is expensive.
>>134Isn’t it best to buy the Hori one and turn it into a Sanwa lever?
>>137It’s only for PC, but since the Obsidian PC version is under 20,000 yen, I think that’s the easiest option.
It seems that if you use a converter, you can use it with the PS5 as well.
When buying a HORI arcade stick, also buy a lever together.
>>136Every time I replace it, I transfer the joystick and buttons from the previous arcade stick.
>>139I remember the PC version of RAPV was quite cheap.
I think the Obsi2 is a good arcade stick, but the cable storage is so bad that it’s a deal-breaker.
>>142It’s for keeping it on, right?
It really changes depending on whether it’s for Street Fighter 6 or something else in terms of user-friendly devices.
To put it extremely, Street Fighter 6 has a very loose input acceptance for commands, so honestly, anything is fine for the directional keys, but on the attack button side, having more buttons is definitely better, and honestly, even 8 buttons might not be enough.
As mentioned in the article above, the Hayabusa was intentionally made with a stronger spring because it is lighter than the Sanwa.
But that lightness seems to come from the housing cam structure they are marketing, so the intention feels a bit mysterious…
Well, the problem with entering at an angle is mostly due to the lever guide, so if you replace that, it’ll be solved.
>>144If you want a lever with a strong spring, I would go with Seimitsu instead of Hayabusa…
Obushi 2 was initially priced at 48,000 yen and was considered high-end, but now it has dropped to 35,000 yen and has become comparable to the thread image.
Well, if it comes down to which one to buy, it would probably be the thread image now.
The default size for buttons is 30, but is the size 24 really more advantageous?
>>148It will reduce misfires and become easier to press.
Well, it depends on the person.
>>148In theory, the smaller the button, the less movement required for finger positioning.
A smaller width has the advantage that the little finger can always catch on the button on the right edge.
If you can always rest your pinky on the right edge even with a 30mm × 8-button, you probably won’t mind it.
>>148I have small hands, so I find 24Φ easier to use, that’s why I do it that way.
It depends on the size of the hand.
Currently, other than Street Fighter 6, no other games are thriving, so the arcade controller for Street Fighter 6 will become the optimal arcade controller as it is.
>>150The fighting games I’ve been playing since the 90s have been lifeless all this time…
When the new Melty Blood comes out, the LeBelus players will express their feelings and ask the developers to change the command specifications in favor of LeBelus.
It’s difficult, but even though I’m using a high theoretical value device, it doesn’t make sense to be told to adjust to the game side.
I’m curious about leverless controllers, but since I use throw characters in every game, I’m concerned that the input difficulty for command throws seems high.
>>155I heard that there’s not much trouble aside from the two turns.
>>155I tried, but characters that don’t have two rotations or Tyrant can probably make it.
I think it requires quite a bit of practice otherwise.
The button size is also related to the size of your hand, so be careful.
Having big hands makes a 24Φ layout too cramped…
If you are looking for more buttons, then 24 has a higher theoretical value.
I’ve heard that even professionals find it challenging, so it’s uncertain whether everyone will rush to switch.
Theoretically, a keyboard-type leverless design is the strongest when it comes to reducing finger movements.
I always try for about two hours with leverless, but I end up retiring because I can’t execute the yoga command in time.
>>162I remember the days when I used to play fighting games with a keyboard.
That friend who could easily execute the reverse yoga command back in the day should definitely be able to adapt to leverless.
>>162It was actually quicker than usual for a professional to transition, even by six months.
If you don’t already use a keyboard or play the piano and have some movement in your left hand, you won’t be able to get used to it quickly.
Multi-buttons don’t look attractive.
>>163It’s definitely a two-button thing.
>>167There was a special fighting game in the past where you used two buttons on the left side and an eight-direction lever on the right side to perform moves.
24Φ has a strong impression of something like a start button.
It seems that staying in the home position for 24 is likely to work, so it might be better to get used to this one for now.
30 is a bit far from the right end of the 8 button.
Due to its design, the leverless system makes it difficult to quickly input yoga flares or 1-turns.
Originally, I want to input 41236, but…
It’s easy for 4136 to be in a state where 2 is missing.
If it’s a yoga frame, it will also show up at 4136, so it shouldn’t be a problem.
There is a problem that low strikes and one rotations are difficult because they fail when they go beyond 2.
>>170In Street Fighter 6, even if you have a low rank, you can still get out after two rounds.
>>171No, it won’t come out.
If I had been out, I wouldn’t be struggling this much with leverless Cammy.
In the case of low stress, it’s technically 9214, but if you go over 2 with this, it’s not good.
>>172Seriously? I’m Jamie’s sub, but could it be that it’s only Jamie’s specification?
I’m sorry if that’s the case.
>>179I tried the training mode just now, but it didn’t work.
Aren’t you just not aware that it’s become 9314?
To be precise, it’s a specification that requires there to be a lower element (1 or 2 or 3 included) before 14.
I disassembled the key switch and put in a small rubber piece because the vacuum wave did not come out enough with the leverless.
It’s come to be used more often, but there have been some misfires as well, though it’s better than not having it at all!
There are people who order and customize the positions of the up, down, left, and right buttons to match their left hand.
It’s similar to a custom-made pillow; when I rest my left hand in a natural position, it feels just right, but during a match, it doesn’t fit well, which seems problematic.
I bought the haute U16 for about 7000 yen, and a few days later, the C16 was announced.
It’s fine because it’s cheap, though.
If you make it too custom with a unique layout,
People who participate in tournaments will have trouble when their arcade stick breaks on-site.
I hear that the leverless vacuum makes it difficult to set up for bullet gaps.
Thinking back, it was good that I was out in a vacuum at 2626 when I was 5.
Haute is a fan of R16.
I’ve got an impact hidden in my left pinky.
Is the thread image recommended if I buy an arcade stick now?
>>182It depends on the hardware being used and personal preference.
I recommend the Fighting Stick α.
>>202The damage when it didn’t fit is probably small since the thread picture is 35,000 and α is 20,000.
I tried moving it with the lever, and surprisingly, I didn’t have much trouble with the input itself, but…
The sudden confusion when the character positions switched left and right was a high hurdle.
Device migration requires patience.
Do you use all 10 buttons on an arcade controller?
>>186It depends on the game because it’s assigned by the game.
>>186In Street Fighter 6
Weak Medium Strong Punch KK DP
Weak, Medium, Strong K, Throw, DI
I think there will be times when I want something like that.
I think it’s interesting that leverless controllers are becoming a refuge for people migrating from FPS games.
My left hand hurts and I keep messing up, so I’ve only successfully transitioned to leverless about three times.