
That’s cool.
I feel like versatility has improved.
It feels good, but it seems like there won’t be any replies on weekday mornings.
There should be more people during the hours.
I want to ask for reference, but how much will the paint bottle decrease with this?
>>4
From the side, but it’s about the same height as three HG Gundams with just one Citadel.
>>9
So the green one is about half reduced, huh?
It’s still expensive.
>>9
Will prices not decrease even if the UK joins TPP and tariffs are eliminated?
I wanted to paint it in Zaku colors, so I researched and found Deathguard Green.
The castellan green looked really fitting.
>>4
I’ve been layering it about three times, but I’m using very little paint and water.
It stretches a lot, so I haven’t even used a third of it.
It’s really easy to use, except that there are so many colors that it’s hard to tell which is which, and it’s expensive.
>>6
It feels like the shade is a paint that can be used for panel lining, shadows, and washing.
It’s a paint used to add shading to details after applying the base coat, so if the details are really pronounced, it stands out a lot.
It’s also incredibly easy to use as a dry brush.
I like this rough metallic texture.
If you paint contrast over silver, it can be used for sensor colors and such.
I’m interested, but Yamada Denki only carries Mr. Color and Tamiya Color.
After several decades, I completely repainted it, and the recent paint was incredibly easy to use, which was a great help.
The barrier to painting has lowered, and it was very enjoyable.
I used water-based hobby colors for the joints and weapons.
The renewal has made it very user-friendly.
I wonder if it’s used like a clear color?
>>13
There are few stores that carry them, and with so many types available, I found it difficult to decide which one to buy.
Yodobashi Camera was a great help by selling at the regular price online.
Well, when looking at the total, the cost performance isn’t that bad.
Matching the colors can easily cost several tens of thousands of yen…
Since it’s expensive, I often use versatile colors in various parts.
I think the shade is not suitable for large flat surfaces because it is optimized for use in intricate miniature sculpting.
If you’re doing it in Gunpla size, it might be better to try using weathering colors.
In the tricolor, there is no pure white color that feels truly white!
>>19
Apply a base color of Corrax White and then layer on White Scar.
Did you spray some primer?
If you paint directly on plastic, it will easily peel off.
I also used weathering color for overall filtering and inking.
I also used this for the first time, but it’s easy to use!
>>20
I sprayed black surfacer from Creos.
The clearance of the joints has also been ensured, so it should probably be fine…
I wonder if there’s a difference in how Citadel and Tamiya paint adheres.
I haven’t really done much brush painting, though.
It feels nice to be chipping away.
Speaking of which, I forgot what it was called, but there was something that looked like cottage cheese; I wonder if it has been improved.
>>25
If it’s Ceramite White, it’s out of print.
Sad
Is it because Citadel or Vallejo takes a few days to cure?
One downside is that the texture changes a bit after some time.
Before I know it, it becomes like this.
Choosing a subject that suits brush painting is indeed important.
It goes well with a milky color, doesn’t it?
I remember that when I dry-brushed over Rhinoxhide (brown) with Citadel’s green shades, it turned out quite nicely.
The degree of chipping is too skillful.
Spit it out, where is the skilled person?
What color should someone who only does partial painting have?
>>33
Red and yellow for internal use of the vernier.
Universal mech color lead belcher
Black is good for the armor interior and the recessed areas, but dark colors are also sufficient with acrylic gouache.
Cool!
I heard that Citadel isn’t suitable for big things like Gunpla, but can it be used normally?
>>35
It depends on the type and purpose.
As a base color, it can be used as a high-performance paint, but the others have quite a few quirks.
It might be suitable for doing things like cel painting.
>>35
It seems that suitability or unsuitability comes more from details and the presence or absence of irregularities rather than size.
When there are many grooves, it hits perfectly.
Both Citadel and water-based hobby colors dried incredibly quickly, so I was panicked because the paint I took on the palette dried immediately.
It seems that if you don’t properly close the lid while using it, it can go bad.
It seems like a deep color that could be used for furniture and such.
It looks fun to use for dry brushing, so I’ll give it a try next time!
Usually, I only did simple assembly and chipping, so that might have been my practice…
This is a gym comm created with simple assembly chipping that was made long ago.
>>38
Let’s use a wet palette!
This time I kept the weathering to a minimum because it was a Kempt, but I would like to try getting a ground-type machine really dirty next time.
I’d like to try Vallejo and Acrilico as they have good reputations, but there are so many options for paint that I’m confused.
>>41
I’ve heard that wet palettes are really good, but it seems difficult to adjust the moisture level…
You’re doing pretty well, aren’t you?
A wet palette is a companion to the citadel.
You can easily make it with kitchen paper and cooking sheets.
It suits the Gundam model of the One Year War.
Wow, delicious!
If you’re looking for an inexpensive emulsion paint that dissolves in water, acrylic gouache is great.
>>45
There are a lot of colors here too.
What is even stronger is that it can be found in large stationery stores.
I hope Citadel comes out with a spray can too.
>>48
There is.
It costs about 3000 yen each.
In the end, to paint Citadel nicely, you need expensive lacquer-based spray, right?
Isn’t it counterproductive?