Actually, I think it’s quite good, isn’t it?

I want LITE2 too.

>>4

There was something like that in Vita, right?

>>22

VitaTV, huh?

It’s a convenient hardware, but it’s a shame that there are a few software that don’t work properly.

>>22

It’s a combination of leftover parts from Vita that didn’t sell well.

Of course, it didn’t sell.

>>4

I mostly use it as a console too, so I want one with enhanced cooling and no LCD.

I was concerned that the text was small and hard to read in some games.

I think everything else is good.

Since I’ve replaced my Joy-Con multiple times, if there’s a Lite version that is less likely to break, I’d like to secure one quickly.

I wonder what the reputation of the controller is like.

>>7

Why don’t you improve it…?

>>12

It can be made less prone to breakage, but the manufacturing costs will significantly increase.

>>12

The stick has sacrificed durability for miniaturization.

>>50

Why are there so many listings for just one controller on Mercari…?

>>97

What?

>>99

I’m sorry, I was going to write that I’m only selling one controller, but I couldn’t manage to use the flick function.

>>5

On the Switch, drift occurred once or twice a year.

The lights are fine even after several years.

I bought the Switch controller about two years ago, and it hasn’t drifted even once.

I think it’s still a bit big compared to traditional portable devices.

If we make it any smaller, it seems like we won’t be able to read the text of games optimized for regular Switch anymore.

The sub for mobile mode is very helpful.

I just hoped they would release a limited edition in a skeleton color…

Here it comes.

In the beginning, I was affected for three months, but this one I bought during Animal Crossing is still fine.

It all comes down to luck when it breaks.

I held on for quite a while, but still, isn’t it a bit slow for a portable device at this time? It broke.

Well, they will repair it for you, but…

If only the machine power didn’t drop a little.

That can be said for the original as well.

The light is not a Joy-Con, so it is unlikely to experience specific recognition failures due to its structure.

The current controllers are difficult to replace parts when they break, so it feels like a concern for what to do in 20 years.

The first Joy-Con stick I bought broke, but the one I replaced it with and the Lite version are still working fine.

The usage is almost the same, and since the latter has been used for over twice the period, I think it has either been improved or I got a good product.

I think that while I don’t usually break game consoles, the LR buttons on the Joy-Con and DS Lite can break easily.

As a secondary device while having a normal one, it was the best.

I think it might be a bit inconvenient with just one light unless you’re playing a game that really doesn’t require much.

The Joy-Con doesn’t break.

It became sticky.

When I bought Animal Crossing, I could only get the Lite version nearby, so that’s the only one I have.

Not being connected to anything is a bit inconvenient.

The back of the main unit is broken.

Before I knew it, the battery had swollen and cracked.

Rather than breaking, it’s not even drifting, so everyone is trembling in fear wondering what kind of gorilla it is.

It seems that the Joy-Con was said to be too fragile overseas, and there was a possibility of a class-action lawsuit, leading to a response of free replacements.

It seems that issues with drift and the R button recognition occur easily when playing Monster Hunter.

I’m not a gorilla, but the stick drifts.

It seems that it has improved now.

Isn’t it hard to hold when the stick and buttons are arranged vertically?

Drifting can change quite a bit depending on how much you use the push.

>>38

The image from the PS2 is strong, but I wonder if there was something before that.

>>40

The DualShock existed at the time of the PS.

Anyway, it was a time when there were not enough buttons…

Was it the PS2 at first?

>>39

The one for PC is first.

I felt sorry for the kids who thought they could just plug this into the Switch dock and play on the TV.

The light is a successor model and doesn’t have sensors, so it seems like the drift issue has been improved due to having more structural leeway.

If you think each family member should have their own device, then this is it.

The playtime and content of the game vary from person to person.

I ruined the stick after holding it forward for a long time in an RPG.

Thanks to that, my Joy-Con has now turned into a fit boxing controller.

Some games have high sensitivity settings, so while there’s no drift in other games, it can happen in this one…

Specifically, Musou Orochi 2.

>>48

It’s more about sensitivity or the dead zone.

There are many games in FPS that allow for adjustments, but

Aren’t the later shipments of Joy-Con supposedly improved to be somewhat less prone to breaking?

I’m not sure if I’m applying too much pressure, but the R1 button is unstable and the stick is drifting…

It was fun to change it up for a change of mood since there were various color options.

That said, the cheap Chinese consoles for the Switch tend to have even worse durability.

The area around the controller has always been troubling.

Since I only use it as a mobile device, I’ll stick with it until the light comes out for version 2.

The Switch was announced just a few days after I bought it…

Now that I don’t have a Switch, I’m starting to want to play Monster Hunter SB, but I guess it would be better to wait for the second one…

>>54

One option is to wait for the OLED Switch 2 to come out!

>>54

I like Monster Hunter Stories because you can play it on Xbox, PC, and PS, so go ahead and play it.

>>54

Sunbreak runs smoothly even on low specs.

You can run it on a 750Ti, so it’s faster to use a more suitable PC rather than waiting for a 2.

Playing Monster Hunter was fun because I could collect materials while lying down and enjoy the story on a big screen, especially on the Switch.

Drifting is luck.

I’m saying this as someone who has seen drift from the DualShock of the PS1, so there’s no mistake about it.

My Lite right stick has gotten all wobbly.

If you’re looking for a Sunbreak purpose, it’s pretty much available on most platforms, or rather, it’s on Steam!

>>59

It’s a great deal because you can also play Monster Hunter XX!

If you consider it a mobile device where only the button part can be replaced, it’s quite different, right?

There is no way the budget version won’t break.

Yesterday, there was an anonymous person exchanging the shell of LITE, and it makes me want to do it too.

I didn’t dislike the pun vibe of the 2DS.

I wonder how the Hori Joy-Con, which have reduced features and are sold cheaply, are, but I keep ending up buying the safe, official versions.

>>65

Well, buying genuine or officially licensed products is the right thing to do.

About six months after buying it, the response of the Lite’s L stick started to get worse and then improved again.

I wonder if that kind of thing had dust in it.

I didn’t want to insert the device with a lithium battery into a dock with subtle heat dissipation, so I wanted it to be available as a stationary unit.

It didn’t come out.

>>67

It became fairly decent at 2.

A dock that doesn’t consider exhaust heat is terrible, isn’t it?

The Joy-Con is quite messed up, but I’m grateful that the Lite is okay for now.

Despite being expensive, the genuine product doesn’t have that much durability.

Well, whether the ones that aren’t like that have durability is a difficult question.

I think Horii’s pad is relatively a good landing spot.

>>73

The cheap wired hori is really great.

The problem is that I can’t start the main unit from the controller…

>>77

The new color wired Hori controller can be started.

>>98

Seriously…? Should I buy it…?

>>108

You just have to press the home button twice, like a double-click.

It feels less responsive than the Joy-Con, though.

>>115

Well, since I don’t need to go touch the main unit anymore, I guess that’s fine.

There were about two times when the left stick started to wiggle and I couldn’t play action games properly.

I wonder if I was overworking it that much…

The Joy-Con and Lite stick components are really thin and small, so it’s no surprise they’re easy to break.

Incredibly light.

It has been confirmed that gorillas also post on bulletin boards in the DIY PC thread.

In the end, everyone wants a portable device.

Make a DS3.

It won’t be physically cut in half, but it will drift and the buttons will become harder to recognize.

On the contrary, I want a low-cost home console.

Being able to lie down and play games is strong.

The Joy-Con stick is terrible! I bought a Chinese controller and the stick physically bent and wouldn’t return, it’s amazing.

I wonder if that was powder mixed with a worn-out axis…

What I wanted from OLED was the light that can’t be displayed on the monitor.

I don’t know the concept of budget versions or anything like that.

How is it that a stick like this, which breaks so easily, is integrated?

I won’t play action games because they seem likely to break, but RPGs might be good to play.

As the name suggests, this was enough for playing lightly.

I was really into Monster Hunter, but it was heavy enough to make my right hand hurt from playing for a long time!!!

Somehow, I was able to play Breath of the Wild: Tears of the Kingdom, and it’s still not broken, so I think it’s a good system.

Gorillas are not suited for integrated types…

I want to play Switch now, so I’ll buy a Lite! If someone says that, it’s trash enough to stop them.

>>94

If you’re planning to buy a second one, I think it’s fine because it can live its life as a second generation.

I was playing with the Switch about 97% of the time in the dock.

I would like to see a version without a display, on the contrary.

I want to see how small it can be.

The normal Switch is quite heavy when it’s lying on its back.

It’s not that I can’t do it, but…

>>96

Let’s use a tablet arm.

It becomes super stable.

On the contrary, those with rounded sides can’t use a tablet arm.

The display is wide as an occupying component.

I feel like the volume doesn’t decrease that much even if it’s a response.

I thought the Hori GC controller was good for Smash Bros, but the stick’s bounceback was really strong, plus its durability was not great.

>>101

I haven’t bought that, but I thought the LR being a clicky type is nice, though it seems a bit questionable.

There are a lot of typos.

There is often a difference in recognition between “breaking” (increasing misrecognition such as drifting, making it impossible to play the game properly) and “breaking” (being destroyed and unable to be used as a controller).

>>105

I haven’t used it roughly, but it broke (drift started occurring even under normal usage conditions).

I didn’t use it roughly, but it broke (it obviously broke from being thrown or stepped on), so it’s hard to distinguish based on self-reporting!

If things go poorly, there’s a chance a new model will be released this summer, so suddenly a lite version might not be out of the question.

>>110

I think it’s quite acceptable to keep the TV on while using the secondary device for thread images.

The PS5 had the fastest stick breakage in history, but they replaced it due to some issues.

Next is the Switch, but they didn’t exchange this one.

Next up is the PSP, but I feel like I’ve played Monster Hunter too much on it.

Next is the GC, but I’ve played Mario Party too much.

Sometimes, there are gorillas who casually throw their controllers or consoles in a fit of anger…

Breaking (even without doing anything, moving forward)

There are probably a lot of people using smartphones with cracked screens, to be honest.

This is not the type of game that requires TV output… so the Lite is the best.

I bought the standard version, but I’ve only used it in handheld mode, so I sometimes think that the Lite version would have been enough.

Listening to the discussion on the thread, I feel that the defect rate has been quite resolved.

(A saggy but somehow moving N64 stick)

Aren’t Joy-Cons hard to use?

>>124

I want you to include a regular controller too.

The number of gaming mobile PCs has been increasing, and there is a certain group of people who want to play games on handheld devices.

It’s great that you can just replace the Joy-Con if there’s a malfunction.

I feel like I wanted a low-cost version that removes unnecessary features from the Joy-Con.

While it has a lot of features, there are sporadic ones that some people might hardly have any connection to.

>>127

Isn’t it just a microphone that we don’t use?

>>128

It’s not attached.

>>127

It’s similar with the DualSense, but the price of controllers has become too high, so I’d like each company to make a simple budget version with just basic features.

Not being able to hold the Joy-Con separately seems to me like a hopeless disadvantage.

It’s honestly tough to handle more than the weight of the thread on the bed.

Depending on the price of Switch 2, there might be a stripped-down budget version released.

I started to think about how I wouldn’t be able to buy it if the new game I suddenly wanted to play wasn’t compatible with Lite…

I think it might have been okay as a sub.

It’s a dedicated hardware for Picross.

I also bought a Switch, but this is almost a Doraemon dedicated console.

Joy-Con has a relatively low durability of the stick itself regardless of drift, so there are quite a few people who break them even if they are not very rough with them.

There was a version without gyro and wireless from Hori.

Well, I can understand that they say there’s no room because it’s thin; the genuine product is indeed thin to that extent…